Raf Simons Spring / Summer 2022 Collection, Review


Mark: Raf Simons

Season: Spring / Summer 2022

Editor’s Notes: It’s cliché to say that a designer picked up where he left off last season, but that’s really what Raf did with SS22. Its Fall / Winter 2021 collection set the tone and SS22 confirms it, delivering as many giant shirts and baggy sweaters as the previous release. Even the skeleton hand jewelry is back!

Still, there is a different benefit to this collection. Lots of recent Simons staples are coming back – the skeleton stuff, yes, but also the vivid artwork, outer garment labels, and raw hems – but there’s still seemingly untapped territory, as Simons takes apparently notes from his own work for Prada. Maybe Miuccia rubs off on him.

By this I mean that Simons’ sense of fluidity is particularly heightened. Not that the clothes are particularly unisex or genderless, but that Simons further erases the already nebulous line that separates her women’s clothing from men’s clothing.

Huge shirts, loaded with tone-on-tone fabric buttons or metallic inserts, escape easy classification just like v-neck jacquard sweaters and puffy handbags, the latter of which look like the whole world to an inflated pouch.

Likewise, Simons’ square blazers look like a very private school but, shapeless as they are, wouldn’t be misinterpreted as a uniform for a boys or girls only institution.

The femininity of ruffled baseball caps and pleated skirts vanished when Simons put the hard rock brand on them and they were styled appropriately on models regardless of gender.

As Raf Simons ages, the cool club-kid of his clothes matures with him but still holds a middle finger (painted) in the air to the outdated concept of the conventional genre, in which hip kids (and adults) swap clothes as they see fit. Her skirt, her huge flowered jacket, their knee-length shirts, all worn as we see fit.

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